Troubleshooting Your Electric Fence
We recommend you test your fence daily to verify voltage levels on the fence
line using a tester specifically designed for electric fence. If your fence
system develops a problem, follow the troubleshooting sequence below to
identify the cause.
You may also wish to refer to other troubleshooting information:
Troubleshooting sequence
Step 1: check the fuses
Step 2: check the power source
Step 3: check the fence controller for output
Step 4: check the fence installation
Step 5: check the grounding
If after following steps 1 - 5, you still can't determine the problem, you may
need to contact Zareba customer service between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. CST, Monday
through Friday for further diagnostic assistance, phone 507 684 3721.
Step 1: check the fuses
Most Zareba and Red Snap'r fence controllers do not have fuses. Look for a fuse
holder located on the outside of the fence-controller cabinet. If there is no
fuse holder, go to Step 2
.
Unplug the fencer before replacing any blown fuses with 1-amp, 250-volt fuses.
Plug the fence controller back in. If the fuses blow instantly, the fence
controller needs service. If the fence
controller operates for several hours before blowing a fuse, then go to
Step 2
.
If the fuses are OK and the fence controller still does not operate, go to
Step 2
.
Step 2: check the power source
Unplug the fence controller or disconnect the clamps from the fence-controller
battery. Then use a fence tester on the outlet or the battery terminals. If you
are not using a Zareba fence tester,
please see our fence tester conversion charts to ensure meaningful voltage
readings.
| • |
A fence controller operating on 115-volt AC power must have a reading from 105
125 volts when tested |
| • |
A 12-volt battery fence controller must have a minimum reading of 12-volts when
tested
|
| • |
The 6-volt or 6/12-volt battery fence controller must have a minimum reading of
6 volts when tested |
If the voltage is adequate for the power source used, go to Step 3.
Step 3: check the fence controller for output
Disconnect the fence line from the fence controller before checking. Use a
voltage tester designed to test electric fence controller output. Again, if you
are not using a Zareba fence tester, please refer to the fence tester
conversion charts
to ensure meaningful voltage readings.
If the fence controller output is low, your fence controller needs service. If
the output is OK, go to Step 4.
Most fence controller models should fall within the following ranges:
| • |
Most solid-state AC and DC models: 8,000 to 10,000 volts |
| • |
Continuous current models: 1,000 to 1,200 volts
|
| • |
Models powered by four D cell batteries: 3,000 volts
|
| • |
6-volt models: 6,000 volts |
| • |
12-volt models: 8,000 volts
|
| • |
Low impedance models: 9,000 to 14,000 volts, depending on the joule rating
|
Step 4: check the fence installation
If the fence controller and power source are normal, the problem lies with the
fence installation.
Start by reconnecting the hot lead-out wire (disconnected in Step 3) to the
fence terminal. Then disconnect the lead-out wire where it connects to the
fence and check for voltage at the end of the lead-out wire. If the voltage is
good, the lead-out wire is OK. If the voltage is low, replace the wire with
Zareba hook-up wire rated at 20,000 volts. Do not
use standard 600-volt electric wire.
Next, reconnect the lead-out wire and disconnect any fences that run off the
main fence. Check the voltage of the main fence line. If the voltage is low,
the problem lies with it. If the voltage is OK, reconnect the other fences,
checking voltage as you add each one. The voltage should remain steady or show
a slight drop until you connect the section of fence causing the problem. Then
the voltage will drop drastically or the fence will short out completely. You
may have to test each section or strand of fence separately.
Once you have determined the fence or section causing the problem, walk the
fence line looking for shorts. Listen for telltale snapping sounds that
indicate electrical shorting. Pay close attention to insulators and connectors,
and look carefully at corners, gates, and areas where the fence runs close to
other fences.
To help locate shorts, poor splices, broken wires, and faulty insulators, walk
the fence line with a transistor radio tuned to the highest frequency on the AM
band and on high volume. The radio will click louder as you approach an arcing
insulator.
Keep in mind that the most common cause of voltage loss is vegetation or rust
on a fence. Use a herbicide under fence wires to prevent weed buildup; if your
fence wire is rusty, replace it.
Step 5: check the grounding
A ground wire or rod giving a shock indicates a poorly grounded system. Make
certain that your rod clamp firmly bites into the rod; do not use wrapped wire
or hose clamps in place of a rod clamp.
Ground rods need to be placed outside where the soil gets sufficient moisture.
Rods must be galvanized steel or copper clad and driven to a depth of at least
6 feet. We recommend using 3 ground rods spaced 10-feet apart.
Dry or sandy soils require better grounding systems for animals to receive a
shock. Even 3 ground rods may not be enough for some locations.
Extreme conditions may require a ground wire
running parallel to the hot wire for the entire length of the fence. Connect
the ground wire to the ground system of the fencer and also to ground rods
every 1,300 feet along the fence line.
For more information on troubleshooting, refer to the
Zareba Installation Manual (PDF)
.
Customer Service
This completes the 5-step troubleshooting sequence. If you still have problems
with your electric fence, please contact Zareba customer service between 8 a.m.
and 5 p.m. CST, Monday through Friday.
Email: info@zarebasystems.com
Phone: 507 684 3721
Fax: 507 684 3722
|